Volcan Tajamulco

Last weekend I packed my backpack, put my boots on and hit the trail for the first time in...well, longer than I would have liked. As such, it was wonderful to be out in the woods again, sleeping in a tent and cooking over a fire. After four hours and three buses we were dropped off at the base of a dirt road in a small town in the highlands.

At the end of that road is Volcan Tajamulco, the tallest in Central America at 13, 853. 

Starting at 10,000 feet we climbed for four hours, covering what we estimated as around four miles. The trail was beautiful, passing through fields and sparse pine forests. 

Lunch time and we bundled up. Clouds rolled in and it got chilly in a hurry. 

I couldn't resist a self-portrait on an old fallen tree on a quick break. 

As we climbed we became surrounded by clouds. At this spot we got small breaks of blue sky and views that showed us how high we were. 

Beautiful alpine landscapes with pine trees and flowers.

At one point we encountered an area where all the trees were long dead, stripped of bark and bleaching in the altitudinal sun. Against the fog it made for a beautiful and eery scene. 

We arrived at a crowded campground, full of large groups of Guatemalans. We found a spot to put up our tents and went in search of fire wood. Nic and I had to put our tent away from our own group and very near another group. We ate dinner and, knowing we had to get up at 4 a.m., headed to the sleeping bags around 9. The party next to us kept us up until around 11:30; drinking, playing loud music, yes, even yelling. We finally fell asleep only to be woken again at 2 a.m. by another party arriving! The fire was lit again, music was put on and the drinks were brought out. We could not believe how inconsiderate they were and it made us very grateful for quiet hours and mutual consideration at camping grounds in the U.S. 

So, with very little sleep we rose at 4 a.m. to find a heavy layer of frost inside our tent. We were up and on the trail to the summit. Nic's GPS said that we were camped at 13,100 feet, the highest I have ever camped. On the hour hike to the summit I really felt the elevation, getting dizzy and having to stop about every 20 feet for a rest. 

Worth all the effort, however! We summited Volcan Tajamulco in time to see the sunrise over distant volcanoes, one of which was spurting ash. 

High on a mountain top. 

To the north is another volcano, Volcan Tacaná. The shadow behind it is actually from Tajamulco, and it stretches into Mexcio.

After arriving back in camp and having a breakfast of last night's quesadillas (brilliant idea, Charlotte) we packed up and headed down. This time we had a view of the area on a beautiful sunny morning. 

A stand of dead trees with a clear blue backdrop.

The trail, following a ridge and giving us a wonderful view of the terrain around us. After the nearly 4k foot decent, we immediately boarded a bus (in this rural area who knows when the next one would pass) bound for San Marcos, an hour plus away. Once there, it was another hour and a half to Xela, where we could walk around and get a meal.  Another hour from there and I was home, bucket bathing and sleeping in a warm bed. In the whole day, however, not once did I stretch and man am I wishing I would have! For the last two days I've been walking like a 90 year old, barley able to bend my legs to get outa bed in the morning! Lesson learned, the hard way. 

Edwin and Lupe Get Married

Last weekend I had the pleasure and excitement of attending a wedding here in Guate. Edwin was my host brother in the family I lived with during training. He and Lupe have a three-year-old son, Danny, and have lived together for years. They were civilly married a few months back but just had the ceremony. It was above and beyond what I expected and reminded me I that I am, in fact, living in Central America. 

As much as the wedding, the ride to the wedding reminded me of that fact as well. Nic and I left my site early that morning and caught a bus bound for Guatemala City. About ten minutes before our stop, the bus slows and then putters to a stop. Out of gas. We're already behind schedule and contemplate walking the rest of the way. Fortunately, a cop drives by and stops to lend a hand. I had heard of other volunteers getting rides from cops so I urged Nic to ask. Sure enough, we were given the okay. So we piled in the back of the cop truck with the bus driver's assistant and an empty bucket. We had thought that there were no gas stations before our stop, but to our surprise about 200 yards down the road there one was. The assistant filled his bucket with gas and we returned to the stopped bus. Nic and I stayed with the cops though, and were dropped off at the doorstep of our destination. 

The happy family: Lupe, Danny and Edwin. Lupe is wearing the traditional pattern of the town of Santa Maria Cauque, where they live. 

We arrived three hours early to the house already bustling with people.  

The usual cast of characters were there, and man the kids grow up so fast. Josue has turned from a cute kid that couldn't talk yet to an attention-seeking trouble maker!

Doña Anacleta, Nic's host mom, caring for her granddaughter. 

And the food! When I asked what I could do to help, Doña Marta, my host mom, said "Eat chuchitos" (similar to tamales) and gave me a handful.

The kitchen. They altered the whole house in preparation for today. They cut down a big lime tree, knocked down walls, cleared gardens and put up roofs.

After we had all arrived, we were invited to go to Xenacoj, a town about 20 minutes away, where Edwin's godparents live. They rented a chicken bus for us and had it decorated. 

We all piled on the bus, and everyone was in good spirits, cracking jokes and laughing.  

The best chicken bus ride ever!

Once at the house of Edwin's godparents, they and Edwin's family had time to give a little speech. However, the speech was in Kaqchikel. Then they brought Lupe into another room, leaving Edwin and dressed Lupe in her veil and gave her the bouquet. The men pinned a lapel on Edwin. Once ready, they were brought together again for more speeches.

We all left the house and walked through town back to the bus that took us back to Santa Maria Cauque and to...

...the church. Bells were rung, small ribbons with Edwin and Lupe's names were pinned on guests, large speakers were brought in and the bride and groom went straight from the bus door to the church door.

The church was decorated and vows and rings were exchanged.

After the ceremony we once again walked through town towards the house. Everyone in town came out to the streets to watch. Once at the door, the bride and groom paused. A blessing was said and flower pedals were thrown on the heads of Edwin and Lupe along with Edwin's godparents.  

As the bride and groom entered a wedding bell piñata was opened, spilling white confetti on them. 

Once inside the party started. 

We were served grape soda and a delicious heap of pepian, the national dish. For dessert: rum. 

Edwin's grandmas from both sides made it, dressed in their best. 

A line was formed and each person presented the couple with their gift at the head table.  

Danny, always trouble, scoping out gifts while everyone else was praying. 

Again, Danny causing trouble, throwing pine needles from the floor onto the table while the family of the bride and groom danced, holding hands in a circle. 

Dia de Accion de Gracias

Last year for Thanksgiving a bunch of us went to a hostel on the lake. We had a wonderful meal and shared it with a load of ex-pats. This year, as our original plans to get together with some other volunteers fell through Nic and I decided to just stay home and lay low. However, it is impossible for me to 'lay low' and not cook. So a complete Thanksgiving meal I made, substituting turkey for chicken however. We had herb-stuffed chicken, pecan, bacon and cranberry cornbread stuffing, garlic mashed potatoes, challah knots, buttered brussel sprouts, gravy and cranberry sauce. Mmm, makes me want it all over again! Oh, apple pie and pumpkin pie made from a local squash. 

Hendrick has been obsessed with X-Men lately and that morning, while I was cooking, he arrived with these: plastic forks duct taped around his hands; his own creation, just like the X-Men. What a kid.  

Chatting with the family and taking a quick break; the calm before the storm. 

Nic and chicken. 

Ela, Benancio and the kids joined us. Ela and I are relaxing after stuffing ourselves.

Here's what you get when you give Hendrick the camera. 

And here's what you get when Hendrick accidentally drops the camera (the camera made it without injury and Hendrick bounced back immediately when offered apple pie).

Ixtauacan Feria '09

It is strange and exciting to be identifying events by year now. This December 13th marks 16 months in-country and this last Nov. 3rd marked my one year anniversary in my community. This year will be my second Christmas, Easter, Guatemalan Independence Day, birthday and every other event celebrated in Guatemala, and as such, also my last. This also marks the countdown until I leave, I can't believe how fast the time has gone. 

So, this posting is the second year at the Feria in Santa Catarina Ixtauacan Nueva. 

Because breakfast is the most important meal of the day, especially true on weekends, Nic and I like to do it up right. This day was breakfast burritos. Hendrick conveniently came to say good morning as we were serving up. 

No one can blame Hendrick for not eating with gusto. 

The church in Ixtauacan.

As with any feria, there are drunk men dressed in strange costumes with masks that dance to a live band, while a crowd gathers around to watch. This guy in the middle was particularly fascinated with the camera and made his way towards me, as I made my way away from the circle. 

Just like any carnival in the states, ferias are full of cotton candy and junk food, games and rides. Oh, and of course carnies too. 

While there we ran into the family, also making happy. 

The feria brings out old and young alike. 

Traditional clothing.

This year, like last year I went to see the rodeo in the make-shift wooden stadium for less than $2. 

The crowd really gets into this event. This guy in the forefront was giving commentary the whole time. 

This man, selling spicy peanuts with lime made rounds the whole event, often times blocking the view just when something exciting is happening. 

Complete with rodeo clowns. 

There is actually a sword behind that red cloth. And like last year I left before the end of the event so again, I don't know if they actually kill a bull or not, but I'm glad I wasn't there to see it if they do. 

Trying to sneak a peek of the action from outside. 

And, at least for Nic and I, no feria is complete without a recuerdo. This time, with a guest of honor: a drunk man in a freaky costume.