Monday, August 3, 2009

A Visit From the Ambassador

Last Friday I received a visit from the United States Ambassador, Stephen MacFarland and Stephanie Pollard, who works in the embassy handling visa applications. Both are new to Guatemala; the Ambassador arrived about a year ago, and Stephanie only three months ago. Ambassador MacFarland has an interest in the lifestyle and work of Peace Corps Volunteers in Guatemala, he also happens to have an interest in the people, language and history of the area that I live. As such, he and Stephanie took a day trip from the capital for a visit. 
We started in the next town over, Nahualá, where Tim is a volunteer in the Youth Development program. We stopped in the radio station and schools where Tim works and took a small tour of the town. 
Afterwards we arrived in Chirijox. Here we hung out with my family for a while eating peanut butter cookies I had made and visiting the garden of one of the women from my group.
Stephanie Pollard, Ambassador MacFarland, myself and Tim Slattery. 

Benancio, Hendrick, Ela with Elkin (Elkin with peanut butter cookie), Ambassador MacFarland, Doña Ana, myself and Isabel.
It was a fun visit and Ambassador MacFarland is a very down-to-earth and generous man. Both he and Stephanie brought us treats; Ambassador MacFarland brought us fresh-baked (although not by him) brownies and Stephanie brought us a bag full of Snickers, Oreos, peanut butter, Ritz crackers, potato chips and other goodies.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Escuelas Abiertas

It was a leisurely stroll to the school that Saturday morning. We were all dressed in our best as the Minister of Education would be in our village to promote the new program Escuelas Abiertas, Open Schools. It's a weekend program for adults and kids offering free elective classes like karate, painting, computer skills and English.
When we arrived things were still being set up, but there were already plenty of people there. 
The stage was adorned with beautiful flowers and the basketball court would be covered in pine needles. 
In Guatemala, there is one thing you must be good at, and that is waiting. Nic and I hang with these sweet little girls while waiting for the event to begin.
Students mill around before the event and allow me to snap a few photos.
Waiting...
The entrance to the school. Once the Minister arrived the band began in a welcome tune.
Nic makes friends with a group of giggly girls and gives a quick English lesson before things begin.
Students wear the blouse and skirt pattern that signifies this municipality  as well as the traditional hair wraps.
Just another (chubby) face in the crowd.
The littlest ones line up, waiting for instructions.
Once the Minister arrived there were songs and dances performed by students. These ones wait behind stage for their turn to perform a dance.
Even the Minister of Education played a traditional song on a recorder he borrowed from a student. 

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Don Juan's Morning Chores

With marimba music playing on his radio, Don Juan set out to his morning chores. 
This is a hand woven and brightly colored head wrap. The men wrap this on their heads as part of the traditional clothing of this area.
He was working away, braiding and trimming the fringe on both ends of this cloth. 

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

The Mighty Chiroy Women

Recently I visited my host family from training, the Chiroys’, whose photos are on the right hand side of this page. I really enjoyed this family in those first three months in Guatemala and try to keep up communication with them. Since I had to be around the Peace Corps office for mid-service training, I decided to spend a night with them.

I always felt a connection with this family even though my Spanish was limited (but improving) while I was living with them. I think I enjoyed most that the house was filled with women: Marta, whose husband died the year before, her daughters Irma and Vero (although Vero lived just around the corner with her husband and kids, she was always in our house) and Marta’s daughter-in-law, Lupe. I came to love each of these women for different reasons, and all of them for their sense of humor and their strength. 

I loved Marta because she was consistent and although prone to spells of sadness she always kept her wits about her and sometimes slipped in a dirty joke. Vero because she was round and soft and always smiled, and also because one time I saw her simultaneously breast feeding her 1-year-old son and 2-year-old niece. Lupe because she was a firecracker. Lupe would laugh when her 2-year-old would call her a puta (bitch) and in the same minute turn around and raise her voice to a pitch that made yours ears hurt and yell at her husband (Marta’s son, Edwin) in a string of words I had no hope of comprehending. Then she would plop down at the table with a beautiful smile and tell me what she had observed about my personality or my appearance that day (for example, this day, the day that I visited, as Lupe looked me over she said,”You’ve changed a lot, Katie.””I have?” I answered curiously. “How?” “You’ve gotten fatter.”)

Irma I loved the most. She, like her mother, was a rock. She worked day and night (literally, nights at the hospital and days at the house), had a mediocre husband, a beautiful and funny 2-year-old daughter and the spirit of a champ. Maybe it was my and Irmas’ relative closeness in age that connected us (she 28, me 26) or maybe it was purely out of kindness on her part, but I felt the buds of a real friendship between us.

Nine months later I am returning, even if for one night, to this family. I am excited (if not soaked from the rain) as I walk the streets of Santa Maria Cauque towards the fields and their house. I am excited to spend more time with them, to have more conversations and get to know them more, now that my Spanish has improved (even if it is still limited).

I am welcomed in byVero, still round and soft and smiling. She seats me at the table and puts a cup of tea in front of me and pushes the Tupperware  of sweet bread my way. Irma is already at the table and Lupe soon joins. Marta, as always, is on her feet, meaningfully and steadily working at keeping the home and it’s occupants but occasionally stopping to stand over the table to listen to the conversation.  We pass a few hours here, catching up, laughing, cracking dirty jokes. The young kids are passed from lap to lap and the older ones laugh at the dirty jokes too, even though we all know they don’t understand them.

Through the evening I learn that Vero and her two kids have moved into the house too, that her husband was having an affair. I learned that Irma, who had also bought a car and is going back to school to become a graduated nurse, had a nervous breakdown; that her husband drove her car drunk the first week she had it and crunched the back rear bumper. I also learned that Irma’s husband had a wife and kids before Irma, and that he sometimes goes to be with his ex wife.

Irma cooks dinner in her house now; she also bought herself an oven. So after I ate with the rest of the family I dodged the lime trees in the dark, crossing the yard to knock on Irma’s door. She invited me in to her two-room house and we sat on her bed while her daughter slept soundly on the other bed. We had a real conversation about life and relationships and family. It felt so good to connect with her, to be able to communicate and understand. And it felt like I wasn’t just the gringa in the house anymore, I was a friend.

After saying goodnight to Irma and kissing her sleeping daughter’s head, I went to bed too. I slept in the big bedroom, Marta’s room. It has three beds; two full beds pushed together, a slight space and then a twin bead. Marta and Celeste, Vero’s 9-year-old daughter slept in one, Vero and her 2-year-old son Josue in the other and then me, after the slight space. We settled in together and Celeste, not being able to control her 9-year-old exuberance, wished me that I sleep well about 6 times and popped up to check that I was okay about 12.

The rain tapped on the tin roof all night and even fell to the cement floor in a spot near my bed.

I awoke to the sound of cartoons and the sight of Celeste and Josue eagerly staring at the screen on top of the dresser near the foot of their bed. When they saw that I was awake it became a game of winks and smiles. At one point Celeste wrestled Josue down, pulled up his shirt to reveal his pudgy belly. Around his belly button were dark marks that almost looked like bruises from my distance. “Look”, Celeste said with enthusiasm. “Chickle!”They both fell backwards on the bed in giggles. What looked like bruises was indeed gum that had somehow managed to stick itself to the soft belly skin of happy Josue.

When I entered the dinning room it was morning: Vero frying eggs in the next room, kids running around babbling, Irma and Marta gone for the day and Lupe bolting in and out of the house, stopping to look me up and down and say good morning. I, too, had to run. I had to get back to the Peace Corps center for another day of trainings. As I ate my fried egg and drank instant coffee Vero, standing in front of me, round and soft with a plastic bag over one hand, asked me how much bread I wanted for my lunch. “Uh, two please.”And with that, my lunch, without even asking for one, was made and placed before me on the table.

 

 

 

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Cerro Jox

The name of my village in K'iche means, "Atras de Cerro Jox", or "Behind Jox Hill". I see this hill, looming steep and green every time I look north. This last weekend, Benancio, Ela, Hendrick, Elkin, Nic and I packed up and took a walk up it. 
This is the view from where we started. We took a pickup up the hiway a bit so we could loop around the hill. From here we walked for about 30 minutes through pine forests. Even Benancio said we were in Oregon (not that he's been there, just that I've talked so much about it). It was a perfect day, warm and sunny with a cool wind. Even Hendrick commented on it: "What a fine day to be in the country". 
At the top of the hill is this small meadow, perfect for games. After lunch we got started on soccer, frisbee, keep-a-way and tag. It felt so good to run and play in a grassy field! 
Along the way I found a pair of orange and black feathers. I told Hendrick they were treasures and put them on his hat. Later, he moved them to the front of his hat and told me that he was a wolf and that he was going to eat me. 
After Hedrick attacked me he put the hat on my head and told me I was a wolf and that I should attach him. I must say, it was my best wolf impression to date. 
Hedrick picked up the frisbee technique pretty quick. 
Here Nic is honoring Michael Jackson by demonstrating his favorite Michael Jackson dance move. Only kidding, it is hard to see but the frisbee is in mid-flight.  
After watching from the shady side-lines, Elkin made his moves on the field. 
We encountered some great old trees on the way down the hill. This is a native oak.  
This is the valley where I live from the shoulder of Cerro Jox.  

Monday, June 29, 2009

Birthday Lunch

Isabel waited until Sunday, market day in the next town over, to buy a chicken. She likes the native chickens and Ela told her they are cheap in the next town over. She killed the chicken in the corn field while I harvested my radishes and planted broccoli, carrots and spinach in my plot. 
Isabel sent Henrick to my house to let me and Nic know that lunch was ready. I brought my fresh radishes down, sliced and salted, only lacking lime juice. She served us Pepian, the national dish of Guatemala. It is more or less chicken served in a gravy over rice. Not bad with hot tortillas. We sat around the table with Doña Ana, Cata and her husband Oscar, Ela with Elkin, Hendrick and of course Fernandito and let the kids entertain us.
After lunch I received hugs and gifts. Cata and Oscar gave me a beautiful shoulder bag and from Fernandito, with the aid of Cata, his mom, a corte. Cortes are the traditional skirts the women wear here; hand woven and embroidered. Cata and Isabel said they would loan me a guipil, a blouse, and a faja, a belt so I could dress in traditional traje. 
Notice Isabel in the background. She is quick to laugh. Especially at the gringa in traje.  
Here we are in the yard. From left is Cata and Fernandito, myself and Isabel. 
Fernando loves the garden. As soon as he spotted these tools laying around he was in the garden digging. And he wants YOU, to plant a garden. 
More fun time in the garden. Nic and Fernando crack themselves up playing in the dirt. 

Monday, June 22, 2009

The Rainy Season

The last eight months or so I have felt kind of smug; enjoying the hot sun on the hills of the Western Highlands that was my new Guatemalan home. I sat on my front porch, squinting in the brilliant sky reading books, eating breakfast or just watching migrating song birds jump back and forth on branches; all the while seeing the hills around me fade from lush green to dry, dusty, even-toned brown. I couldn't help hiding a little smile as I applied sun screen to the bridge of my nose and the back of my neck while hearing about snow, rain and cold from friends and family back home. 
As I left Oregon to return to Guatemala, I left Oregon in what may be it's best season; late spring/early summer. And everyone at home told me what fortune I had in catching such wonderful weather while I was there, that it had just turned. The rainy season had officially started here in Guatemala in the last week of April, and it was pleasant, I must say.  Brilliant mornings with clouds slowly rolling in to release a shower by afternoon; allowing me to settle down with a book after a morning in the gardens. Because of this, upon my return to Guate I envisioned the country lush and green again, still warm with light sprinklings, just enough to make one put on a jacket. I was leaving beautiful weather in Oregon to arrive in beautiful weather in Guatemala. I was still smug. 
Well, things have changed, as they tend to do. It has rained for approximately the last 60 hours with little to no break and no end in sight. It is cold and windy. I am dressed in wool socks, multiple layers and a beany. If I need to use the restroom, I dress as if I were headed out on a hike: boots, hat, headlamp. If I need to wash my hands or some vegetables, wash the dishes or just fill up my kettle, I have to awkwardly arrange my umbrella between my right shoulder and my right cheek while kind of hunched over, stabilizing the handle on the edge of the sink to free my hands, all the while my feet are being flooded by the run-off from the yard. 
The path from the main road to my house, once leisurely and interesting is now an obstacle course of mud pits, low branches that catch my umbrella, slick inclines and corn stalks that have been knocked over by wind and laid low by the weight of the rain drops themselves. All the while I am timing myself; will I make it home before I either slip in the mud or completely soak and soil my shoes and socks? 
I don't feel smug any more. Now when I hear from friends and family they are talking about picnics, raft trips, bike rides and afternoons in the park. Now when I hear from them I am hanging up my dripping rain jacket and putting on water for tea to warm me up. 
Yes, of course, I knew it was coming. And yes, of course, it is not all bad. Sixty hours of rain leaves ample time for games of Canasta with Nic, baking cinnamon rolls, making elaborate dinners, catching up on reading and, as it turns out, blogs.